![]() In the game, when you go to setup, use the X custom and click the recommended setup, then make sure you save it (Y i think?). not sure how to explain, but those sliders are strange. ![]() I think sometimes that when you think you are setting something, it actually works the opposite way lol. or as it should, then perhaps add some dead zone. If you are SURE that in the game, when setting the sensitivity you see the bar move slow. In your G27 logitech software does the pedal seem to respond normal? With that said, I would try the brake sensitivity all the way to the left, then. I really think the game is buggy when it comes to the sensitivity settings. My guess is that there is some button you missed, assigned as the brake, and it is getting set somewhere. YOu have to do this manually, the game defaults to several buttons performing the same thing. MAKE SURE you delete all associations and just have ONE assignment for EVERY function. did you go into the mappings and DELETE ALL of the mappings to the controls? If you don't, it will have buttons assigned to the brakes and I think they are off/on (for example, the B button if you are using gamepad, etc.). if you just touch it and it puts the brake on, it almost sounds like you have it mapped to a digital input. Like your brake pedal is stuck or mapped wrong. Make sure you can see the dial going smoothly from 0 to full when you apply the brake. Have you calibrated both in the Logitech software AND in Windows through the control panel? If you set your wheel to 540 or less, move the sensitivity to the left a few notches (not just one). If you set your wheel to 900, sensitivity at center is very fine. I have no idea why, all I will say is, if you're going to move the sensitivity, move it far to the left. then if you move it one more notch to the left, it actually gets less sensitive. if you set the sensitivity just one notch to the left of center, it actually goes WAY to sensitive. It generally does that, but I found some strange bug. So the sensitivity (in my opinion) SHOULD work such that middle is normal, left is less sensitive, and right is more sensitive. See below for some notes on sensitivity that I found. I found that sometimes I have to exit the settings, jump out of the game, come back in, twice for it to "take". If you want faster response, go back out of the game, lower the range (down to something like 540 or 360) but KEEP THE GAME AT 240, then check the sensitivity. The good thing about this is that you will have very precise control. I set my wheel outside of the game to whatever I want, and it will turn that full movement, and the game will "map" it to 240 degrees. Sounds silly but if you don't have this correct, it will stop moving and your wheel will still turn, OR you will get erratic movement in the middle.Īgain I will repeat, the game only goes 240 degrees. YOU SHOULD SEE THE BALL GO ALL THE WAY LEFT AND ALL THE WAY RIGHT. turn your wheel all the way left and all the way right. Once you have have done that (or anytime you change these values above), use the START button to view the sensitivities. (I will explain later, but for now, just keep it in the middle)īrake and throttle sensitivity. Steering senstivity - set in the middle!! Do not go one click left or right. ![]() ![]() Set steering to 0 (all the way left) You do not want a dead zone in the steeringīrakes and throttle set to either 0 or 1 notch from the left I still feel the rattle but I've learned to live with it. The reason for this is that the game can only go 240 degrees, no matter what anyone says.įFB - what you set here will lower even more, the "rattle". I REPEAT SET THIS TO 240 DEGREES ONLY!!! (silly I know but it will work). When you first enter the controller menu, it asks for a wheel range.ĭO NOT SET THIS TO ANYTHING OTHER THAN 240 degrees. Set the VSYNC EVERY FRAME - this dramatically reduces the "rattle" This button is used for checking sensitivity later. Important! Set the START mapping to only ONE key or button. This way, when mapping the throttle, for example, the ONLY thing that will cause the throttle to move is the actual throttle. Clear each one out, then use the ENTER key to create a new mapping for each item. Go through all of the key mappings that are associated with driving (everything under the driving section) and delete EVERY mapping. you WILL get full wheel control with these if you follow the instructions below). Some of the things don't make much sense but I have tried many different combinations and this works.īefore running the game, go into your Logitech profiler and set up whatever range you want (540, 900, etc. If you follow these steps, you should get good results. ![]() I wanted to post something because I see a lot of people having issues with the wheel setup. ![]()
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![]() ![]() Two complex squares from Imi Knoebel use overlapping strips of paper-bearing ‘bristly’ brushed-on acrylic paint-as bordering frames that can be interpreted as looking through at the attire or furnishings of decoratively inclined personalities, while in the stockroom, as a two panel work set in a corner, Winston Roeth’s contribution seems related to Duchamp’s two portal/one door installation ( Door as a Substitute for Two Doors, 1927) that can never shut off (or open) both entrances (to two rooms) simultaneously. ![]() On the other hand Geoff Thornley’s relatively small canvas on the opposite wall, displays a closed doorway of pink flesh, with underpainted dragged lines blurred in the style of Francis Bacon-a restless, rectangular symbol of contained corporeality. Günter Umberg’s dark square, projecting out from the wall on bevelled sides, shows a mystery self of deep deep blue, an internal void that reveals a refusal to step into the light. Coen Young’s large rumpled vertical sheet of chemically treated, shiny, smoky-silver, heavy paper is presented versus the burnished graphite-on-linen stretcher of Matthew Allen where metallic silvery smears emerge from black streaks at the edges. Two other works, on opposite short walls, present mirroring: literal reflection-each a blurred configuration of the gazing gallery visitor’s face. A flap on the bedware could be a nose, and this ambiguously looks like a head facing into the room a lovely surrealist object that is quite haunting. Sam Harrison’s white bronze bust of a woman’s head tightly covered with a pillowcase or sheet, faces the wall. It is not blurred or smeared, but with its fine horizontal lines, it looks more like an embroidered tapestry. McMillan’s painting method of course, is very different from Richter’s. 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From there it just gets more impressive and terrifying - mobile mortar platforms, mech hunting bots that fire steel rods. The second crawls on spider legs, sporting two machine guns on each side of its cylindrical body. For Polania, the first mech available is bipedal and wields a massive bolt action rifle. ![]() They range from basic to super-advanced weapons platforms, excruciatingly close to just being Metal Gears. Mech troops are also where you'll find a whole lot more unit variance, not just in terms of what options are available in commanding them, but also visually. Like tanks, they're resistant to the munitions that prove fatal to basic infantry troops, so to combat them you'll either need a bigger gun or a mech of your own. Mechs in Iron Harvest are close cousins to armored units in most other RTS titles. ![]() For example, if your army is getting blasted by enemy mechs and all you have are riflemen, getting some extra firepower is as simple as finding enemy cannoneers and taking their gear. This kind of class fluidity plays a huge part in Iron Harvest, where situations can change quickly. Instead of producing units that you specifically want-say, machine gunners-you can command a group of riflemen to take out enemy machine gunners, then pick up their weapons. While this all sounds par for the course, Iron Harvest does have an interesting way of giving players more options with their infantry units. For the most part, all infantry troops are the same, and consist of classes you would expect from an RTS riflemen, grenadiers, medics and engineers among them. At first, there aren't many differences between these three nations during play. Regardless of their ideals, the fighters in Iron Harvest represent one of three factions - Polania, Rusvia and Saxony, each with their own pretty blatant real-world counterpart. in favor of a more fluid classpath and giant, diesel-fueled robots." " mixes up the rote experience of building units, getting resources, building better units, etc. The best part though: all of this is only in one of the game's campaign stories - there are two more focusing on the game's other factions. While the suits of metal these characters used helped them carry out their ideals, I can't help but think it also insulated them from the reality of it, similar to the way a drone pilot doesn't really know the damage they're causing. They are by far the most ruthless in the game, causing the most violence whether it be for their own country or for some greater movement. I also couldn't help but find symbolism in the characters that were always found in mechs. In cutscenes only, it asks players to question what war is worth and who should be fighting them. It's clearly anti-war, unlike so many other games that center around the subject. ![]() Along the way though, the game does manage to get its messages across. Most of the story isn't gracefully told it inches forward like rusted gears, grinding and clanking. As neighboring Rusvia begins to occupy her homeland, Anna stumbles backward into the resistance movement trying to reclaim Polania and the scientists that originally created the mechs. Set after the war has ended, its story revolves around Anna Kos, a young, idealistic woman with a massive bear as a best friend. Like other RTS games, you have a couple of options for how to play the game, but I recommend everyone start at its natural beginning, the campaign. ![]() ![]() ![]() It is recommended that you file as soon as possible if you are getting a refund. Can I file my tax return before or after April 18th? 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But it is up to you which links to target for your own link building. Such tools help you find and rate links from niche-relevant sites (and if you are still iffy about your niche, Rank Tracker is a first before you do anything else with any other tool). Some programs like Xrumer are for 100% automated link creation while others like LinkAssitsant or SEO SpyGlass are semi-automatic if you can call it that. – Thirdly, you can control the level of automation you do with SEO tools. So you see, in real life it is not about white hats or black hats – it’s about juggling somewhere in between trying to please both search engines and people. Outsource your link creation to automated link builders – and you may get into hot water with SE’s for building links “unnaturally”. Do just handwork – and you may take forever to build links. – Secondly, in real-life SEO (and I mean REAL, not some pretty rosy stories and tips in SEO guides by Google) people do a healthy mix of automated and hand-made link building. So you see, SEO is not just about automated link building. If your site looks like a junkyard and spam – then what’s the point of being on page one in the first place? You need to do onpage SEO, write a nice website copy and compel the reader to read, buy, subscribe, or whatever it is you want him/her to do. But imagine you getting on page 1 (quite possible with this type of tool) and having REAL people click on your site. – Firstly, if you rely on Xrumer exclusively – you are augmenting your site’s popularity, primarily among search engines. But I also think that this type of automation is not for everyone (not at the beginner seo levels thats for sure) and that there is a horde of other activities that must be done and SEO tools that must be used in addition to it. JastebolI personally think that Xrumer is a great tool for what it does (ie automated linkbuilding). You will probably go through quite a few tools and make a few blunders as you go but SEO is all about experiments – so keep on trying, measure, test, see what works for you and your niche. You can completely automate backlink building by using tools like seonuke but you can also use backlink checker tools like seo spyglass or services like majestic to find competitor backlinks and go after competitors’ best links. You can spin original articles (with article spinners or by hand – your choice) and submit their multiple versions on the web in directories of lower quality. For instance, you can write quality articles and submit them to quality article directories to attract users and leave your links. I guess it is up to you how much of SEO and link building you want to automate and as will all things you have to find a golden mean somewhere. My take is that at the end of the day all SEO tools are black hat and not to use them at all is not an option in my opinion, if you are looking for a massive SEO impact. Quite a few people actually stay away from it as it creates spammy link wheels which could boost your SEO (again, if you know what you are doing) yet are not beneficial to the end user. JastebolPerhaps seonuke but be very very careful – you have to know seo inside out to come up with an effective backlink strategy with this tool. 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